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Rigid Foam Insulation And Drywall

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Old 08-19-2021, 01:50 PM   #1
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Default Rigid Foam insulation and Drywall

Hello!

We live in PNW and have a 30 ft pacific yurt with snow and wind package. We want to add rigid foam

insulation

between the rafters and finish with drywall. On the exterior we will add board and batten siding.

Can someone recommend the best way to go about the rigid foam, in respects to air gaps and vapor barriers, that will reduce the likelihood of mold??

Thanks in advance for any tips, advice or thoughts ..

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Old 08-27-2021, 07:13 AM   #2
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Default Re: Rigid Foam insulation and Drywall

I think i would remove all of the vinyl cladding first , as that would be the mold culprit. Mill strapping to 1/2 thick, and install around the lattice work horizontally every 16”, screw thin plywood to the strapping and cladd with tyvek.. and on and on. You get the idea i think
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Old 08-30-2021, 09:44 AM   #3
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Default Re: Rigid Foam insulation and Drywall

I have no idea how to beat the mold issue. It's all guesswork with me.

Here's a possibity for roof

insulation

. Again-I have no clue how this would actually work- it is a guess.

Remove the roof cover. Cover the rafters with a white poly tarp. Cut the tarp to fit around the ring. Leave the edge of the tarp dangling down over the wall lattice. Insert the foam board between the rafters from above, so that the interior is not exposed to runoff if it occurs. Any dripping or runoff should go to the outside, with the exception being condensation on the interior surface of the tarp. That might be incredibly bad-beats me. Reinstall the roof cover. Whether this will mold or not beats me. Same goes for

moisture

running down interior wall. Beats me.

IMO Mongolians solve this by covering the rafters with cotton cloth, and then layers of wool felt. Anyway there you go.
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Old 08-30-2021, 01:41 PM   #4
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Default Re: Rigid Foam insulation and Drywall

I had another idea regarding the roof. cut pie shapes out of S.I.P., So that they center on each roof joist. No thermal conductivity through the joist? This way you can see your joist and have Sheetrock white on top of them , with obs on the top, than either metal roof it or what ever your preference. A lot more detail around the skylight and overhang,Much more work and expense than Bob’s idea.
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Old 08-31-2021, 11:47 AM   #5
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Default Re: Rigid Foam insulation and Drywall

OK, all of the following is my opinion, and is off yurts in general.

I'd leave a professional yurt 'as is'. I wouldn't invest in any of my unproven 'trial and error' ideas on a standard yurt I spent serious coin on. Buy it, erect it, install a wood stove and amenities, and get on with life.

If I was young, had a small property in a rural area, and wanted a small 'unimproved' home, I'd build a barn shaped shed say 12 x 16 with loft, on a slab, and install a good wood stove. No foundation piers 'in' the ground. I'd build it using conventional construction practice.

June 2020 I did a smaller version of that. In three weeks I built a 10x12 barn shed on my 16' d.

yurt platform

. Double barn doors, three- 2x3 operable windows. ~$2900. Shingled painted done deal. Firecracker red with white trim. It's a beautiful shed if I do say so myself. I store my carpentry tools in there since I'm basically retired now.

As a young man I could EASILY have lived in there through the winter with a wood stove. That barn shed would EASILY beat the tent I WAS living in, or any nomadic yurt I have ever made, by a w i d e margin. I might have to give it another coat of paint in seven-ten years, maybe. But it would be a FINE unimproved cabin without any doubt.

Anyway back to yurts. This isn't a condemnation of yurts btw. Yurts are the best tents ever invented, by a w i d e margin.
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