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20'-10'-20' Connected Family Yurt

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Old 11-25-2013, 02:16 PM   #11
bss
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Default Re: 20'-10'-20' Connected Family Yurt

I am not an engineer so I would only consider trying it with a small (under 12' or so where the canvas/rafter weight is low, even when snow loaded. With a larger diameter

tension cable

and more or thicker (or both) khana strips to compensate.

It's overbuilding, but with very few materials.

Based on what I do know about vertical and diagonal loads and how they behave and how yurts work, I think an engineer could execute this concept over a larger footrpint in a totally safe manner.

It would solve the problem of "where to put the woodstove?" in a yurt with thru-wall venting. Just clock the roof where you need it when you put up your yurt. The smoke would still vent thru the highest point in the room (which we know is far more efficient), but now the stove doesn't need to sit right smack in the middle anymore. Aside from being aesthetically pleasing from inside and out, this would be a tiny compromise in radiant heat distribution in exchange for massive gain in usable floor space. Which becomes more and more important the smaller the yurt diameter gets. among other things.

Last edited by bss; 11-25-2013 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:11 PM   #12
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Location: Taberg, NY / Sedona, AZ
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Default Re: 20'-10'-20' Connected Family Yurt

Sure it's possible, and you don't need to be an engineer to design/build one. Now to work it out & experiment.

I've never had any worries in yurts with center or side vented chimneys. Both ways can fit well into the space with a good setup, no doubt your offset placement would work as well. In my opinion the most important thing is an efficient stove and ample dry wood.
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:33 PM   #13
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Default Re: 20'-10'-20' Connected Family Yurt

Quote:
Originally Posted by bss View Post
I am not an engineer so I would only consider trying it with a small (under 12' or so where the canvas/rafter weight is low, even when snow loaded. With a larger diameter

tension cable

and more or thicker (or both) khana strips to compensate.

It's overbuilding, but with very few materials.

Based on what I do know about vertical and diagonal loads and how they behave and how yurts work, I think an engineer could execute this concept over a larger footrpint in a totally safe manner.

It would solve the problem of "where to put the woodstove?" in a yurt with thru-wall venting. Just clock the roof where you need it when you put up your yurt. The smoke would still vent thru the highest point in the room (which we know is far more efficient), but now the stove doesn't need to sit right smack in the middle anymore. Aside from being aesthetically pleasing from inside and out, this would be a tiny compromise in radiant heat distribution in exchange for massive gain in usable floor space. Which becomes more and more important the smaller the yurt diameter gets. among other things.
Are you going to start building this year? Please add some pics on the forum I'd love to see what you are cooking up.

-Cheers
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