Hi OE,
At the moment I don't have a new receiver, but I am talking with a couple guys,and I feel sure will be worked out my the first of the year when my normal shipping process starts again. You can talk to me if that is a problem. Also this is no imposition to me, as long as Jafo doesn't have a problem with my self-evaluation.
The metal framing is different than you see in most yurts. It is both better and worse, depending on your frame of reference. (pun intended)
The metal uprights and rafters are standard pipe, and the spacers are standard angle, so if you lose or damage something, it is easy to get a spare made. Take a sample to your local metal working shop and they can make it pretty quickly. Back over some of the pipes and bend them? Take a hammer, tree stump and a little sweat and things are as good as new.
A yurt locker is always the same diameter, and always fits the cover the same way, and it is "self-rounding". The rafters enforce the circular shape and are well interlocked. no spiralling and no twisting of the rafters.
Lattice can have a little more leeway as to height and roundness. Less so with the US factory yurts, more so with the Mongolian style yurts.
Is the metal it as beautiful as the crossed sticks of a traditional yurt? Maybe not, but mostly the walls are covered with a liner, so it isn't really too big a issue for me. You have decide if the utility or the wooden diamonds are more important for you. I very quickly don't notice it.
Storage? The metal frame can take more abuse, of course you should avoid abusing it if you can, whether wood or metal, and always take particular care with the covers.
If I had to guess I would say the metal frame might be a little heavier in the smaller yurts, and much lighter in the larger yurts. I have not done the actual comparison, but it seems almost impossible unless you have a particular model and know if you will order the snow load kit or have extra bracing, etc. The approximate weights of each size of my yurts are on the order page in a downloadable pdf called (since you are in the USA):
Basic Pricing Information and General Specifications Using Feet, Inches and Pounds.
The weight is broken out separately by frame weight and cover weight if that is helpful. The covers, top and walls come standard insulated with polyester felt that nothing wants to eat. The walls have 3 zip-open plastic windows with bug screens inside and canvas covers outside, one larger, two smaller.
There is no lattice in my yurts. I don't have a problem with lattice, it just isn't for me. No, just joking, it just isn't the style I am doing. Metal frames do make it easier to add "hard windows" should you ever decide to put it in a permanent place. Just weld brackets into the frame. They are also just as easy to remove. Pull them out, patch the cover, and put an original style wall support back in place.
Which is stronger? I have no idea, and it would depend very much on the cross bracing and snow load packages and all that stuff. At the factory they were happy to hang half a dozen guys from the tono, and laughed about it. They said they had never had a bent frame, and they said they have hung 250 kilograms (550 pounds) from the tono of a covered yurt with no problems. I was there when there was a good 18" of snow on the yurts, no problems.
I appreciate the feed back on my website. I am trying to let people know they are dealing with a real person, not a corporate entity. Once again, there are advantages both ways. I am not trying to fool anyone, just offer another option.
So far I have had 2 people who said they wanted to take advantage of the weird discount... but I have never heard from them again, and it has been almost a year now.
Again, both good and bad. I would have really liked the pictures, but I also presume things went smoothly for them since I have never heard back from them... and I haven't changed my email or phone number, hahaha.
Since I don't have more to offer you in that department, have you downloaded and looked at the:
"Erecting a Yurt Locker Yurt - Model 12m2 to Model 80m2" ?
It is on the "Other Stuff" page, under "Interesting stuff that may be helpful to you"
See what you think, and I would appreciate any questions or feed back on that pdf. A lot of people were there helping, but it would be almost as easy with 2 or 3 people I think. They had it up and covered in about an hour (+/-) if I remember correctly. No piece is really heavy, accept the top cover. I have since learned another way to place the top cover that seems a little less dangerous than getting on the tono. I should modify that pdf again...
I saw you were talking about floors in another post. My wife and I were just travelling in Mongolia, where they move many of their yurts at least 2 times a year.
They used rolled out and cut-to-shape linoleum flooring as a temporary floor, at least in the summer, I haven't been there in the winter, but I think it is the same. They used a wide clear piece of tape to join the two parts of the linoleum in the ones I stayed in this summer.
I saw where yurts had been moved after having been erected over the grass for about 3 months, and the grass was pale yellow, but was coming back without a serious problem. I think 6 weeks after they were moved you would hardly be able to tell where they were.
You could probably do the same with a pool liner, or an above-ground pool cover, if you found the right size.
They put a scrap of wood under the legs of the furniture to keep it from cutting through the linoleum, and maybe to level them up? A scrap of carpet might be as effective.
Sorry, I tend to be long winded, long typed? long fingered? Not sure what to call it. Hahaha
Let me know if there is anything I didn't make clear, or anything else you want to know that I could help with.
Rod
rod
yurtlocker.com
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