Ad

Planning to build a yurt in Czech Republic

Today we finished attaching the other khana end to the frame, rotated the whole thing a bit to get the door where desired and then anchored it to the floor. Did some measuring and have the roof height planned, so I can start making the baganas.
 
Main parts of the baganas finished, though both ends will get the T-bar yet reinforced by slant braces. First testing with the ring temporarily ductaped.



Couple roof rafters added to mark the hole angle on the ring.
 
Last edited:
That's right Marshall. This build along is the 'meat and potatoes' for yurt construction archives. Apply yourself, and you too can do it. Good stuff all around.
 
Thank you guys. I have both baganas finished and reinforced on each end and tonight I'm starting with the ring holes.
 
Yes Bob i have the frame in my icon was number 2 for me and it became a very nice green house. just change the cover. I have built 3 total. I still have my first tucked away in a safe place for when needed.
 
Another testing, now with finished baganas and some of the slots in the ring already cut.


We still need to put the tension cable over khana top, as you can see it's a bit deformed. Already have the cable and clamps, though I yet have to think of a way to lead it over the door frame. Other than that, the whole thing seems to come together nicely.
 
It IS coming together nicely. Don't worry about how to run the cable over the door. Make the cable to length. Lay the cable in the crosses and right across the top of the door frame. Drill holes in your rafters near the lath cross and lash the rafter to the frame, and at the same time you'll lash the cable to the frame. Nothings going anywhere if you lash the rafters down to the frame like I did. Bombproof.
 
It's hard to tell from your photo how much wood you're removing from the yurt ring. But based on what I'm seeing, I'd definitely add another layer to the bottom of the yurt ring to beef it up a bit.
 
Well, problem is that my khana laths have pretty short ends at the crossings. Surely something to remember if I ever build another one, but for now I have to deal with it. If I lay the tension cable in the crossings, I'm afraid there won't be much room left for the rafters. How about I laid the cable in every other crossing only, as I'm only using half crossings for the rafters? I could then lash the cable separately.
Also, what would actualy be the right length of the cable loop? Shall I just measure it by the khana's bottom edge?
 
In your case the cable length is the yurt circumference on the outside of the wall. Since the wall is bracketed to the floor in its permanent location, just wrap the cable around the base of the wall, mark witness points, and there's your length.

Now is the time to make the cable.

The cable doesn't have to sit on the lath crosses. Lash it to the upper set of lath crosses on the outside of the yurt wall. Use five or six lengths of rope, and start to the left of right of the door frame. Do the door frame seperately.

Lash the cable at the narrowest part of the lath cross with a hitch, and go down to the next pair and repeat. Go all around the yurt until the cable is fully lashed off to the wall. That cable won't come down, shift, move or screw you in any way.

With your lath crosses being small, I recommend drill a small hole in the rafter right by the lath cross, and lashing the rafter down onto the cross to keep them in place. Jusat truck on down the line as you did with the cable install.

An alternative to all this is to simply cut the top set of laths off and leave 3" legs above the second cross down. That would yield a wall that looks just like mine where the wall and door frame meet. I have no issues at all with that set up. Just saying.

You're doing good. All problems are solvable. Have fun.
 
It just occured to me, I don't know if you precut your rafters, or are attempting to making a master rafter that has a seat cut in it by the 'measure in place' technique. That's not advised if you are trying it without the tension cable installed, and the roof ring centered and at installed height.

If you are cutting them to length right now, WITHOUT the tension band in place, consider this. The wall needs to be tensioned by the cable to it's correct diameter, or plumb, to get the rafters the correct length so the seat cut sits in the lath crosses. The ring needs to be in its exact location atop the baganas as well.

If the rafters are running wild at the wall line without a seat cut, then you can get away without making a master rafter with seat cut pattern. It's your call.

Just wanted to get that cleared up or I might not be able to digest my breakfast. lol Have a good day.
 
Thanks for all the good advice Bob. I think lashing the cable to the crossings from the outer side will work fine. I'll likely do it tomorrow.
As for the rafters, by now I'll just cut their upper ends to fit the ring holes. I'll deal with their lower ends then. They are all 3m long and the roof angle is calculated to match this length, leaving a small piece over the khana. Once everything is ready, I plan to cut a step on bottom end of each rafter and shape the overlapping part to fit into the khana crossing. That should allow the rafters to sit well. Will also drill them through and lash them to the khana. Wouldn't mind lashing them on the top end as well, though that might not be necessary.
 
My pleasure. You're welcome.

You certainly can just lash the rafters up to the roof ring. I considered doing that myself. However, I have several inches of vertical oriented 1x3 rafter poking into slots in the roof ring. With that type ring design ring twist is impossible, and I know for darn sure that cable ain't gonna expand an inch. So the rafters tied off down low is good enough. Can you believe I said that? lol

Have a good day tomorrow.
 
Oh yeah, I gotta tell ya when I saw the bagana duct taped to the ring it made my day. Men and duck tape. lol I just was at WalMart yesterday and happened by a duck tape display---and grabbed yet another roll. heh heh
 
Yeah, I expected someone will find it funny when I posted those pics. But it seemed as the best option for quick attaching, without making any unwanted holes and such.
So, all the slots in the ring were chiseled out and now I'm putting an over layer on it.



Here's the top layer started. I chose to use un-shaped boards now, with just the correct attaching angle cut. I'll trim the extra wood on edges later. Will save me one sawing session, as I did always cut the shaped 1/8s of a circle and then ended up trimming the edges anyway. This way I'll only saw them once.
 
Hi gents I'm late to the game but I'll say this - if you all haven't already planned to make this a sticky thread, I humbly suggest this one gets the sticky treatment. It's an amazing post.

You all are awesome to share thoughts and guidance for we who are taking a peek in this world of yurt. The more I'm seeing from y'all the more I'm deciding this is the path I'll take.

It's truly inspirational. Having a yurt novice and guidance from seasoned vets is exactly what this old man needs to get fired up.

Thanks y'all
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top