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Planning to build a yurt in Czech Republic

As for book, it could be useful to pick the important stuff from my build and make it into a text file or something. Perhaps it might help some other yurt newbies.
 
Should receive some more furniture in the next week, so we can unpack into it and get rid of the banana box pile.
Making a coat hanger, using bronze cast direct replicas of certain Roman artifact. For other archeologists, it's gonna be funny, for everyone else it's gonna be a weird coat hanger. I think I'll like it.
Hope I can place another small table for my ammo reloading press somewhere, when all the essential furniture is here.
 
Building a porch, stairs will soon follow.
Once it's complete, I'll pour some concrete into the ground blocks.









 
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Yes - bamboo is used for khana. Similar to cane that is bent for walking sticks - it is bent in hot sand which is heated up on metal over a fire. I don't know how it works being steam - bent, never tried it.
The khana poles do need a bit of bend so that they can make the concave shape when concertinad out, otherwise they bend out.
 
Thanks, it's not really an issue anymore, as the yurt is already standing and we live in it.
I've also seen some Mongolian khana meanwhile, made of natural sticks, just flattened on two sides. If I saw that before, guess I would have gone that way.
 
Thanks, we love it so far. Building the stairs right now, I may post pics of finished work tonight if things go well.
 
Almost done! One narrow upper plank will be added yet, that will be in line with the porch floor.
Then just need to add some banister to one side and our stairs are complete.

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I'm not completely satisfied with the results, but it serves the purpose and was the first stairs we ever made, so...
 
Some of the planks don't fit all that well between the side boards. No matter how precisely I've tried to have everything measured and straight and accurate, it's not. However, it works fine, so I'm not really that worried about it anymore. Need to put some linseed oil on the whole thing yet. Not sure if I should keep it natural bright or put some stain paint on it as well.
 
Based on the photo it looks reasonably safe. It isn't easy fitting treads between heavy stringers and getting them tight if there is cupping in the stringers. If you get the money to blow you could drift lags from the outside of the stringer into the tread. That'll tighten the joint somewhat.
 
Just talking out loud here not criticizing. If you were to dismantle the stair for any reason you could mortise the treads into the risers. A router and a jig makes this easy, but it can be done freehand and I have done it that way. If you are happy with the tread layout pencil around the tread at the riser. There's your layout.

fwiw I inherited my moms condo. The main entry stairs built similar to yours. They were constructed in 1973 and still work just fine. No work redoing anything. Just saying.
 
Thanks for the ideas. I don't plan to redo the stairs any soon unless necessary. At first I wanted to make cutouts in the sides for each step, but went the lazy way. Must focus on making stuff for sale, can't spend so much time on the yurt.
 
It's getting cold here lately, had to fire up the stove today, after a long time. Still works fine. Already learned to heat the pipe first with a torch of rolled newspaper, to get a nice draft. Works every time.
 
Your stove is significantly different than mine. You seem to have some kind of heat exchanger off the back of it?



That has to cause some draft issues on it's own. I have two 90 degree angles in mine:

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There is the one in the black stove pipe, and then one on the outside of the wall to the chimney. This week, I will be swapping out the 90 inside and will go with two 45 elbows. One on the collar of the stove, and the other on the thimble of the through the wall kit. The manufacturer of the stove and countless others at various wood stove forums recommended I do that for a better draft. Draft is very important for a catalytic stove.

It's too bad you couldn't set yours up so the pipe goes directly straight through the roof from the firebox. It would save you a bit of room for sure.
 
The device behind the stove is a spark trap. The whole set is army surplus, likely made in 50's or so. It was made for large army tents and various semi-permanent installations. Very primitive design, all cast iron, no linig. On the other hand, there's very little to break on it. I don't really mind the extra room it takes, it hardly sticks out of the bagana area. Plus it surely helps to keep some of the heat in. I saw pics of some other Czech's yurt, that guy also used this stove setup and had couple bricks stacked on each side of the spark trap, to accumulate more heat. Maybe in winter, I'll do it as well.
The trick to heat the pipes is nothing new, really. It was a common thing back when woodstoves were in every house. Many blacksmiths also use it, to get the draft started when they fire up the forge (I have an outdoor forge without chimney, so I don't have to)
 
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