Im assuimg the best way to plumb the yurt in a cold climate would be by using a basement? Id like a well, or is there any other way to do this without having to build a basment, as this would add a lot of cost to the project. The frost line is at 5 feet, we can have long cold winters in northern wisconsin.
plumbing in cold climate
- Thread starter philm
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Bob Rowlands
New member
With $$$$ in mind I'd set the yurt atop a wood framed platform since a full fledged foundation really should have a stick frame house atop it. jmo. Enclose the water supply and drain in an insulated chase below the platform. Insulate the chase with foam board instead of fiberglass batts. Wrap heat tape around the supply as a backup for extremes in low temperature.
Below grade down to frost line you need an open pit so no earth is in contact with the pipe. Wrap the pipe with heat tape and pipe insulation. Insulate the snot out of it.
Standard procedure for house trailers in extreme cold climate like northern Wyo. is described above PLUS the addition of insulated skirting around the base of the trailer. What I have described to translate to a yurt, but alll that pipe in the yurt HAS to stay above freezing
Really imo yurts are NOT good candidates for extremely cold temperatures when it comes to modern plumbing because the arey gonna be prone to freezing unless a conventional furnace is utilized. And/or drained when away.
IMO if you are remotely considering a foundation, I'd consider building a small ranch house on top of it. But this is jmo.
Below grade down to frost line you need an open pit so no earth is in contact with the pipe. Wrap the pipe with heat tape and pipe insulation. Insulate the snot out of it.
Standard procedure for house trailers in extreme cold climate like northern Wyo. is described above PLUS the addition of insulated skirting around the base of the trailer. What I have described to translate to a yurt, but alll that pipe in the yurt HAS to stay above freezing
Really imo yurts are NOT good candidates for extremely cold temperatures when it comes to modern plumbing because the arey gonna be prone to freezing unless a conventional furnace is utilized. And/or drained when away.
IMO if you are remotely considering a foundation, I'd consider building a small ranch house on top of it. But this is jmo.
Bob Rowlands
New member
I also abide by the sensible philosophy of living within your means.
I'm a carpenter not a plumber. I did weatherization of trailers and other dwellings in Jackson Wyoming for a couple years aome decades back. It gets WAY below zero there and I had to deal with frozen piping under trailers on a regular basis.
There is a pro plumber on this site he might have some advice. Good luck.
I'm a carpenter not a plumber. I did weatherization of trailers and other dwellings in Jackson Wyoming for a couple years aome decades back. It gets WAY below zero there and I had to deal with frozen piping under trailers on a regular basis.
There is a pro plumber on this site he might have some advice. Good luck.
Surely Yurts - Steve
Manufacturer Representative
The underground root cellar would obviously be best.
Looks like Bob has the formula for that down nicely.
A lot less expensive would be to store water inside yurt and use gravity sink.
Just remember not to fill the barrels too high in case you need to leave for a few days and they freeze
2-300 gallons per person should make it through the winter for showers and dishes. Flush toilet would require much more.
-Cheers
Looks like Bob has the formula for that down nicely.
A lot less expensive would be to store water inside yurt and use gravity sink.
Just remember not to fill the barrels too high in case you need to leave for a few days and they freeze
2-300 gallons per person should make it through the winter for showers and dishes. Flush toilet would require much more.
-Cheers
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Bob Rowlands
New member
Good thinking.
TKOAK
New member
I live in big Lake Alaska. It gets really cold here. Last week 23 below zero. Our Yurt is on 3 ft pilings.
I bought a system from Heat Sense, a Canadian company.
The sewer has a 30 ft heat sense "tube". Heat sense tube draws 44.6 watts and only heats when it need it in a particular spot in the sewer.
The water line has a 10 ft tube in the 1.24 in waterline. My water line is 14 in the ground from the well.
The shower "P" trap and 8 ft drain line has a Outside Heat Sense tape wrapped around the trap and sewer line. The whole system costs $1229.00 including the $169 shipping to Alaska. All this is covered in one inch of closed cell foam.. The black stuff. Get it from commercial plumbing company Ferguson Suppley in Wasilla Alaska and across the USA
This a cheaper than building a chase or a basement.
I bought a system from Heat Sense, a Canadian company.
The sewer has a 30 ft heat sense "tube". Heat sense tube draws 44.6 watts and only heats when it need it in a particular spot in the sewer.
The water line has a 10 ft tube in the 1.24 in waterline. My water line is 14 in the ground from the well.
The shower "P" trap and 8 ft drain line has a Outside Heat Sense tape wrapped around the trap and sewer line. The whole system costs $1229.00 including the $169 shipping to Alaska. All this is covered in one inch of closed cell foam.. The black stuff. Get it from commercial plumbing company Ferguson Suppley in Wasilla Alaska and across the USA
This a cheaper than building a chase or a basement.
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