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Planning to build a yurt in Czech Republic

Some of the rugs are wool, others not. Price was good. We keep some of the nicer ones aside for walls, as well as a big scroll of wool felt. The hemp did cost about $400 for the whole yurt.

We surely will have a fire extinguisher or two around.
 
Finished the top ring of thermofoils and added some of the wool blankets on the large gaps at the bottom. Will cover the remaining spots with some leftover materials once we finish the wall.



 
We did some adjusting and straightening of the insulation layers today.
Now let's see about the wall. Still need to think of some way to end and hide the ends of insulation and the outer cover at the door frame.
Anyone can advice me how that's done? I can imagine adding some extra wide board to the frame, that would go over the ends of the fabric, but really not sure if that's the right way to go. Can't find any helpful photos of this detail.

Also, as the insulating materials are being moved from smithy to the yurt, my smithy is finally usable again and I can work on the hinges and such. Will also make forged stuff to all who wanted some before, your requests were not forgotten!
 
I have the same problem. Cold air rushes into the yurt from the sides and top of the door frame when the stove is fired. Upside is you can see which grandkid is coming in. lol

One way to halt all this would be to butt a 3/4 board edgewise to the door frame to where the front is flush with the the frame and forms an 'ell'. The wall cover could be attached to the front.

Above the door frame freeze blocks -sized the height of the rafters- could be attached to the frame between the rafters and flush with the outside edge of the door frame. The roof cover could wrap over the ends of the rafters and 'return' back to the frieze block and be attached there. The entire cover would then be attached to the outside all round the door frame. That should shed water in a hard driving rain.


I've also seen door frame sides made as a 'c' channel, with a front AND rear side extension. The frame and the cover tuck into the slot. Detailing above the door I haven't a clue.

Lastly, having a door stop for the door to seal against is important. I need to retro fit one to my door jamb so that when the door is closed it seals against the stop, just as with all standard exterior doors. That will stem water and air infiltration.

Just some ideas. Good luck.
 
OK knecht I just looked at your recent pics again. My cover to door detailing is just like yours. Mine leaks air big time when the stove is fired.

Take off the wall cover off and sew a hem on the door edge big enough to accept a wall lattice strip. Insert it in the hem. Screw it to the face of the jamb and the cover will be very solidly attached. Or simply pull the wall cover over the side jamb and screw a lattice strip over the cover to attach it to the jamb. Pull the roof cover over the ends of the rafters and secure it to the door frame header with lath.

As for the wall cover being short, either sew another piece of cover material to the bottom, or simply tuck another piece up under the upper cover, and attach to the lattice. I'd opt for sewing on an extension long enough to where it fully drapes down around the side of the platform. Keep the seam on the hem to the bottom.

Hopefully your roof cover hangs down the side wall far enough that the upper tension rope will snug it tight to the wall cover and lattice. That's what I did and I 'll say it makes a VERY good air seal.

I added loops to the top hem on my wall cover at every lattice cross. I merely drape the loop over one of the lattice strips. No sags. Works perfect. One heck of alot of work though. I also added loops to the outside hem of the roof cover. Those are roped to an anchor system around the yurt perimeter. Bombproof. A whole lotta sewing went into the wlal and roof cover. Yurt makers EARN their money lemme tell ya.
 
Thanks Bob, some good ideas there.
What I thought might work is this: I would add a wide board on each side of the door frame, attaching to the front face of it. The new board will overlap on the outer side. From the back, this new board would have a thick foam pipe insulation sleeve attached, which would work as sealing - it would be squeezed between the board and the wall material. I think this could work well.
I don't need anything on top of the door frame, as the roof attaches straight to it. The door is made to fit into the frame, but with a rim all around the door board, which is where I plan to put some door insulation.
 
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OK it sounds like you have a good plan to seal up the door to the frame. Adding the side board with foam insulation sounds like a good plan as well.

I gotta deal with mine too, so I might just try your idea. I wouldn't have to undo the cover or resize anything. :D There are a number of yurt pics online that show a wider board facing out at the side of the door frame. The most pressing issue with my yurt though is getting it insulated and that is totally out of the $ question at this time.
 
Today I've finally finished patching the stitched points.
Bought some large pipe insulation to try my idea with the door frame sealing. Will refer how that worked. Hope to start covering the walls in the upcoming week, if the good weather holds.
 
Added another tarp to complete the wall cover. Just temporary, as we'll take it all off when we finally do the wall insulation. By now it's rainy, so we have to wait.
Anyway, the wall looks much nicer and more solid with the whole height covered.
 
Insulation will be the same as on the roof, plus the wool felt I've written about before. So, looking from the inside, there will be felt + carpets, then a layer of the hemp fiber, then some old tent fabric and the outer layer will be the camo tarps. They are 2m high each, so they overlay almost on whole height. They seem to be of somewhat better quality than the usual blue tarp. I wouldn't trust them for roof, but being vertical and mostly doubled, I believe they won't let the rain in.
 
The jamb halves of door hinges roughly forged. Will improve them a little yet and finish them with baked-on beeswax.
Door halves will be similar, but smaller.
 
I dig hand forged metal work. Looking forward to seeing the finished hinges.

As a total aside here, I like hand made work, especially scratch built black powder guns, selfbows and arrows. All manner of forged weaponry. There's a museum in Stockton CA, the Haggin Museum, that has an incredible antique arms display that features both BP arms and some selfbows indigenous to the native people of the western US. Anyone with such an interest should stop in to see the Haggin Museum in Stockton.
 
Bob, I believe we would have much to talk about if we met! While I enjoy modern guns, crossbows and all kinds of cool gear, the old ways and artifacts always have a special place in my heart, be it a BP gun, bow or some interesting tool. It's why I became an archaeologist and also why I've quit it and started making the items.
Actualy, while I've worked on the hinges and waited for the forge to fully heat up (I use good old coal), I made two points for Roman plumbatae - lead-weighted throwing darts. I've finished them with the lead weight, shaft and fletching and started learning to throw them. Very interesting weapon. I've read that this simple, hand-thrown dart can reach up to 80m!
 
Our yurt has just withstood a windstorm. At first though, the wind has tucked up the roof cover somewhat, but then I pulled it back down and secured it, plus I've tied the wall cover to keep it from flapping around. I planned to do this once everything is done, anyway, so at least now I see what it will look like.
 
knecht both our yurt covers are similar. I added loops to the perimeter of my roof cover. Those are anchored to the bottom with rope. That stops the cover from pulling up in a high wind.
 
On the pacific yurt, the roof perimeter has grommets as does the top and bottom of the wall fabric. You lace the roof perimeter to the top of the wall using nylon cord. You then screw the bottom of the wall into the skirt on the platform. It would take quite a bit for the entire thing to lift off that way. It would have to rip about 50 (reinforced) grommets.
 
That sounds good, Jafo. I could make something like that. What I have now on the roof cover are the tying straps and buckles (which is what caused the patching problems); these are supposed to be tied to the roof poles. Unfortunately, they don't always match them properly, so I tied some of them to the tension cable. That was all done in haste and during the windstorm. Now I need to think of a better permanent solution. Some good ideas here, thanks. I was thinking of something like Bob says, even thought about sort of diamond-pattern lacing from roof to bottom, across the wall. Thought the yurt would look like old infantry drum then though :)
 
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