Insulating a yurt roof
- Thread starter lizsteve
- Start date
Re: insulating the roof
We have forged ahead with a combo of ideas... We ended up getting a good deal on used foam board. We cut to size and put in between rafters. Wasn't too bad actually - just lots of little specs of foam everywhere. Next time do this before moving into the place!) It fits snug. Affordable options to cover the ugly foam were not many - we couldn't find a big enough white parachute (our yurt is 27'), the price for the white roof covering from the yurt companies is very high. We ended up ordering unbleached muslin from Joannes Fabric online and with a 40% off coupon it was about $125.
Thought about sewing to size but that seemed complicated so we tacked in place with staples and then added lath on every rafter to secure in place.
All in all 3 full days of work. Working amazingly well and wasn't too hard of work. Just slightly tedious.
We have forged ahead with a combo of ideas... We ended up getting a good deal on used foam board. We cut to size and put in between rafters. Wasn't too bad actually - just lots of little specs of foam everywhere. Next time do this before moving into the place!) It fits snug. Affordable options to cover the ugly foam were not many - we couldn't find a big enough white parachute (our yurt is 27'), the price for the white roof covering from the yurt companies is very high. We ended up ordering unbleached muslin from Joannes Fabric online and with a 40% off coupon it was about $125.
Thought about sewing to size but that seemed complicated so we tacked in place with staples and then added lath on every rafter to secure in place.
All in all 3 full days of work. Working amazingly well and wasn't too hard of work. Just slightly tedious.
Surely Yurts - Steve
Manufacturer Representative
Re: insulating the roof
Hi Guys,
You can insulate that skylight with this product:
10mm x 48" x 96" Clear Twinwall Polycarbonate Sheet
This company will cut a piece to the size you request to cover the bottom of your dome. Tack it in with a few screws or even design a hinge for winter use. Will not be a clear view of the sky but will still allow light whilst providing insulation.
-Cheers
Hi Guys,
You can insulate that skylight with this product:
10mm x 48" x 96" Clear Twinwall Polycarbonate Sheet
This company will cut a piece to the size you request to cover the bottom of your dome. Tack it in with a few screws or even design a hinge for winter use. Will not be a clear view of the sky but will still allow light whilst providing insulation.
-Cheers
Ouryurtlife
New member
Re: insulating the roof
We just have the reflective insulation ordered through pacific yurts in both the ceiling and walls, but what we noticed made a huge difference in keeping our yurt warm was adding our insulation under the yurt. We got ahold of thick foam-like pads from our local mill and stapled them up underneath. It's what they use in their shipping crates to protect the plywood sheets, so it's dense and a couple inches thick, and came in fairly large sheets. It is currently 8 degrees outside and 74 degrees in our yurt
We just have the reflective insulation ordered through pacific yurts in both the ceiling and walls, but what we noticed made a huge difference in keeping our yurt warm was adding our insulation under the yurt. We got ahold of thick foam-like pads from our local mill and stapled them up underneath. It's what they use in their shipping crates to protect the plywood sheets, so it's dense and a couple inches thick, and came in fairly large sheets. It is currently 8 degrees outside and 74 degrees in our yurt
stephanwik
New member
Re: insulating the roof
As far as I'm concerned an insulated platform is an integral part of a year-round yurt. No insulation = summer tent!
We're going to not only super insulate the next one (220mm Earth wool) but this time it'll be in-floor heating
The yoga students will enjoy it...
As far as I'm concerned an insulated platform is an integral part of a year-round yurt. No insulation = summer tent!
We're going to not only super insulate the next one (220mm Earth wool) but this time it'll be in-floor heating
The yoga students will enjoy it...
Ouryurtlife
New member
Re: insulating the roof
I completely agree stephanwik - I couldn't believe the difference after insulating underneath. In-floor heating would be loooovely.
I completely agree stephanwik - I couldn't believe the difference after insulating underneath. In-floor heating would be loooovely.
SeverTheTether
New member
Re: insulating the roof
Our floor is not insulated, but we enclosed our space under the yurt with walls, and insulated them. It gets quite cold here, and we have a well and running water in the yurt, so we had to be sure it couldn't freeze up down there. It also gives us some extra storage space that stays around 55 degrees.
We've had -25 degrees already this year and not even close to freezing up down below. (We also put in a vent between upstairs and the crawl space by the wood burner, and another on the opposite side of the yurt, so that a good convection current can put some of the warm air down below too.)
The platform before putting up the walls:
After the walls:
Crawlspace:
After having spray foam insulation:
Our floor is not insulated, but we enclosed our space under the yurt with walls, and insulated them. It gets quite cold here, and we have a well and running water in the yurt, so we had to be sure it couldn't freeze up down there. It also gives us some extra storage space that stays around 55 degrees.
We've had -25 degrees already this year and not even close to freezing up down below. (We also put in a vent between upstairs and the crawl space by the wood burner, and another on the opposite side of the yurt, so that a good convection current can put some of the warm air down below too.)
The platform before putting up the walls:
After the walls:
Crawlspace:
After having spray foam insulation:
TKOAK
New member
Re: insulating the roof
There is a Yurt Mfg. in Homer, AK, they build good Yurts. they make a insulated blanket from the same polyester we use in cold weather clothing. It costs about $1800.. (it think) I deiced to made my own 1 1/2 inch polyester quilt roof blanket.
I bought there rolls of house wrap and several rolls of tape. In my case a 30 x 30 ft square was taped together on the loft floor. (i.e. in the yard in the grass) the roof was laid out using geometry for a cone. Two pieces were made. I ordered 8 rolls of 1.5 inch poly insulation and glued it to the house wrap, trimming to fit the cone.. The top piece of house wrap was sprayed with glue and carefully laid on top of the poly and it all stuck together, We then went around the entire perimeter of the "blanket" and tape the edges every 16 inches. The result is a very nice roof quilt. It will be placed under the roof over the bubble/aluminum insulation. The people who have installed this blanket report good result. This year is my first time of having to provide my own heat in Alaska. It is a challenge. A gas 20,000 BTU vented wall heater and 1.5 inch pink foam insulation did not do the job in my Connex cabin. I had to install the wood heater.
There is a Yurt Mfg. in Homer, AK, they build good Yurts. they make a insulated blanket from the same polyester we use in cold weather clothing. It costs about $1800.. (it think) I deiced to made my own 1 1/2 inch polyester quilt roof blanket.
I bought there rolls of house wrap and several rolls of tape. In my case a 30 x 30 ft square was taped together on the loft floor. (i.e. in the yard in the grass) the roof was laid out using geometry for a cone. Two pieces were made. I ordered 8 rolls of 1.5 inch poly insulation and glued it to the house wrap, trimming to fit the cone.. The top piece of house wrap was sprayed with glue and carefully laid on top of the poly and it all stuck together, We then went around the entire perimeter of the "blanket" and tape the edges every 16 inches. The result is a very nice roof quilt. It will be placed under the roof over the bubble/aluminum insulation. The people who have installed this blanket report good result. This year is my first time of having to provide my own heat in Alaska. It is a challenge. A gas 20,000 BTU vented wall heater and 1.5 inch pink foam insulation did not do the job in my Connex cabin. I had to install the wood heater.
Corinarose
New member
Re: insulating the roof
TKOAK, do you have photos of what you described as your roof quilt.
i couldnt quite follow your written description.
I do so appreciate everyone sharing what they are creating to stay warm but sometimes words dont quite convey what everyone is doing.
I guess I am a visual oriented person.
Thanks
sounds like we are all trying to come up with creative ways to stay warm
As for the dome. I velcroed 4mil plastic to the dome bug net (plastic on the dome side of the net) cutting a slit for the dome opener (which matched what the bug net had) and then velcoed the whole thing back in place.
Prior to doing this I was having moisture problems on the dome and since then --NONE!
Its set up so if I need to open the dome I can. I'd take a photo but it just looks like the bug net screen in place, you cant see the plastic.
I have roxul in my walls and in the next couple of weeks I will be putting it in the ceiling so I am very grateful for everyones input on insulating.
Corina
TKOAK, do you have photos of what you described as your roof quilt.
i couldnt quite follow your written description.
I do so appreciate everyone sharing what they are creating to stay warm but sometimes words dont quite convey what everyone is doing.
I guess I am a visual oriented person.
Thanks
sounds like we are all trying to come up with creative ways to stay warm
As for the dome. I velcroed 4mil plastic to the dome bug net (plastic on the dome side of the net) cutting a slit for the dome opener (which matched what the bug net had) and then velcoed the whole thing back in place.
Prior to doing this I was having moisture problems on the dome and since then --NONE!
Its set up so if I need to open the dome I can. I'd take a photo but it just looks like the bug net screen in place, you cant see the plastic.
I have roxul in my walls and in the next couple of weeks I will be putting it in the ceiling so I am very grateful for everyones input on insulating.
Corina
Re: insulating the roof
TKOAK,
I like where your heads at. Im in the process of winterizing my yurt and the ceiling is particularly frustrating to insulate while keeping somewhat portable. Once you begin cutting tapered insulation into the rafters relocating would become very frustrating I imagine. What about using heavy duty commercial carpet padding instead of the blanket? You can buy large quantities, many are mold and fire resistent? and im sure by finding the right source or doubling up you could get an R7 value or so. Also, if Bonded logic makes their denim batts wide enough maybe you could patch together a "quilt" from that- very warm (yet pricey)!
TKOAK,
I like where your heads at. Im in the process of winterizing my yurt and the ceiling is particularly frustrating to insulate while keeping somewhat portable. Once you begin cutting tapered insulation into the rafters relocating would become very frustrating I imagine. What about using heavy duty commercial carpet padding instead of the blanket? You can buy large quantities, many are mold and fire resistent? and im sure by finding the right source or doubling up you could get an R7 value or so. Also, if Bonded logic makes their denim batts wide enough maybe you could patch together a "quilt" from that- very warm (yet pricey)!
Re: insulating the roof and CONDENSATION?
Hi Folks,
We successfully insulated the roof with salvaged foam board cut to triangles to fit snug in the rafters. Then covered with a muslin for a better look and tacked up with battens. It's great and making a HUGE difference during this very cold winter.
BUT we're starting to notice wet marks on the muslin in the last week or so - and today - it's above 20 degrees for the first time in 2 weeks - condensation is noticeable in dozens of spots on the muslin.
Anybody else experience this and find a solution? Taking down the muslin is a painful thought... We opened the dome but I don't know that will really help.
THANKS!
Hi Folks,
We successfully insulated the roof with salvaged foam board cut to triangles to fit snug in the rafters. Then covered with a muslin for a better look and tacked up with battens. It's great and making a HUGE difference during this very cold winter.
BUT we're starting to notice wet marks on the muslin in the last week or so - and today - it's above 20 degrees for the first time in 2 weeks - condensation is noticeable in dozens of spots on the muslin.
Anybody else experience this and find a solution? Taking down the muslin is a painful thought... We opened the dome but I don't know that will really help.
THANKS!
Reinventor
New member
Re: insulating the roof
That is exactly why we encased our insulation in plastic and taped it all down.
That is exactly why we encased our insulation in plastic and taped it all down.
stephanwik
New member
Re: insulating the roof and CONDENSATION?
Normally in Sweden the 'right' way to build is:
- Outer cladding (panels / bricks etc)
- A vapour barrier (Tyvek or similar) to stop the wind but allow moisture to escape from the insulation to the exterior.
- Insulation
- a damp proof membrane (often plastic) to stop moisture from inside the building migrating into the insulation
- an inner wall
Translating that to a yurt is not totally straightforward, especially since the outer shell is damp proof. However the dome does does allow an air flow which we noticed also has a drying effect.
In your case you might want to consider plastic between your muslin and the insulation to stop the humidity from inside the yurt migrating to the insulation. We've also experimented with putting Tyvek between the insulation and the cover, and that has worked well and it minimises condensation collecting in the insulation. The tricky bit is creating enough air gaps to allow any moisture that does accumulate to be transported away however. On the next yurt we'll leave a gap for this purpose by fastening the insulation on the lowest part of the rafter. The insulation itself will not be as thick as the rafter.
I hope this makes sense. The joys of insulating a yurt
Normally in Sweden the 'right' way to build is:
- Outer cladding (panels / bricks etc)
- A vapour barrier (Tyvek or similar) to stop the wind but allow moisture to escape from the insulation to the exterior.
- Insulation
- a damp proof membrane (often plastic) to stop moisture from inside the building migrating into the insulation
- an inner wall
Translating that to a yurt is not totally straightforward, especially since the outer shell is damp proof. However the dome does does allow an air flow which we noticed also has a drying effect.
In your case you might want to consider plastic between your muslin and the insulation to stop the humidity from inside the yurt migrating to the insulation. We've also experimented with putting Tyvek between the insulation and the cover, and that has worked well and it minimises condensation collecting in the insulation. The tricky bit is creating enough air gaps to allow any moisture that does accumulate to be transported away however. On the next yurt we'll leave a gap for this purpose by fastening the insulation on the lowest part of the rafter. The insulation itself will not be as thick as the rafter.
I hope this makes sense. The joys of insulating a yurt
Re: insulating the roof
Reinventor, what you are explaining is :You put the yurt up, then the insulation, then a layer of plastic that you taped the seams?
Now that we have this problem, hindsight is brilliant. I am thinking we should have put Tyvec on the rafters before any insulation. Also could help to wrap the yurt it in too, before the side wall insulation and canvas. Perhaps when this isn't our primary home, we'll take the canvas off and redo it. But sounds like a big job!
We did open the dome a crack yesterday and this morning I don't see the spots on the muslin, so things must have dried a bit.
Reinventor, what you are explaining is :You put the yurt up, then the insulation, then a layer of plastic that you taped the seams?
Now that we have this problem, hindsight is brilliant. I am thinking we should have put Tyvec on the rafters before any insulation. Also could help to wrap the yurt it in too, before the side wall insulation and canvas. Perhaps when this isn't our primary home, we'll take the canvas off and redo it. But sounds like a big job!
We did open the dome a crack yesterday and this morning I don't see the spots on the muslin, so things must have dried a bit.
Bob Rowlands
New member
Re: insulating the roof
Cracking the yurt roof vent and/or opening a window or two when cooking or bathing is a good way to get rid of excess atmospheric moisture. Get a natural air flow going and the excess moisture will exit quickly, just as it does in any residential kitchen and bathroom with a window and vent fan.
Canvas and other organic yurt materials need to stay as dry as possible for long life. Damp canvas trapped in long term contact with a moisture laden insulative material is going to be prone to decay. Even in Colorado, canvas tents rolled up damp mildew in short order. It is essential to keep canvas as dry as possible.
Cracking the yurt roof vent and/or opening a window or two when cooking or bathing is a good way to get rid of excess atmospheric moisture. Get a natural air flow going and the excess moisture will exit quickly, just as it does in any residential kitchen and bathroom with a window and vent fan.
Canvas and other organic yurt materials need to stay as dry as possible for long life. Damp canvas trapped in long term contact with a moisture laden insulative material is going to be prone to decay. Even in Colorado, canvas tents rolled up damp mildew in short order. It is essential to keep canvas as dry as possible.
I've been meaning to follow-up with a photo and I finally properly finished our fabric covering on the insulation which is really just for show. Here's a peek at the finished product (attached I think). Harsh winter - we were glad to have the insulated ceiling. Steve wants to do the walls too, but I am hoping we hold off and rather do real windows that we can open and close from the inside... we'll see. Plus, opening the dome on days 32-40 degrees seems to stop the condensation (at least visually).
Attachments
RocktheCasbah
New member
Re: insulating the roof
I would love to see pictures of this! We are thinking of doing the same.
I would love to see pictures of this! We are thinking of doing the same.
thebitmaster
New member
So I consistently see people putting bubble-wrap style radiant barrier insulation in between a decorative inner layer and the outside canvas. Everything I've read says that radiant barrier doesn't work without an air gap on one side. Because of this, I took mine out from between the layers and put it on top, despite the fact that it's not really weatherized for outdoor exposure. The problem is that radiant barrier is an excellent heat conductor, so if things are touching it on both sides the heat conducts right through. This makes it mysterious to me that so many commercial yurts use some kind of bubble wrap insulation *between* layers where it's losing most of its ability to block heat transfer. Does anybody understand the thinking behind doing it that way? I get the idea that you're trying to protect the more fragile radiant barrier from the elements, but that doesn't do any good if there's no air gap.
This is a fairly good explanation of the problem. I think it's slightly oversimplified, because I don't think radiant barrier loses it's ability to block radiant heat with no air gap. It still blocks most radiant heat (nothing has magically changed the aluminum), the problem is that it also conducts conducted heat really well, so if either surface it's touching heats up, that heat goes straight through to the other side.
https://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/new-videowhy-is-an-air-gap-required-for-radiant-barrier-to-work/
This is a fairly good explanation of the problem. I think it's slightly oversimplified, because I don't think radiant barrier loses it's ability to block radiant heat with no air gap. It still blocks most radiant heat (nothing has magically changed the aluminum), the problem is that it also conducts conducted heat really well, so if either surface it's touching heats up, that heat goes straight through to the other side.
https://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/new-videowhy-is-an-air-gap-required-for-radiant-barrier-to-work/