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Joop 07-26-2015 11:20 AM

R-value?
 
Hi everybody ,new to forum and yurts.just wondering how much as in max r-value can be had in a yurt .up in canada so kind of important.thanks for any info

YurtInTheWoods 07-26-2015 03:44 PM

Re: R-value?
 
Hey Joop,

I needed some clarification on your question before I can add a suggestion. What do you mean by "how much r-value can be had in a yurt?" Do you mean what comes stock in a yurt with a winter wind and snow package or do you mean how much can you personally add to the structure after its set up?

We live in PEI Canada with damp cold winters in a yurt for many years now.

Does the region you live in, in Canada, experience much snow? I guess a better question is what part of Canada are you hoping to set up camp (haha)?

Joop 07-27-2015 12:35 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Hi inthe woods,what others have done to augment heat retention i am in quebec,the yurt would be in the eastern townships lots of snow and cold.might become principal residence later on.

YurtInTheWoods 07-27-2015 03:43 PM

Re: R-value?
 
Hey Joop,

I've seen a few different attempts at insulating a yurt beyond its stock insulation... but personally we don't have much insulation and it stays relatively warm with a large wood stove (pioneer princess wood stove in a 30 foot yurt). I imagine more insulation would help, but I have been very concerned about condensation on the tarps on the inside of the yurt that would be blocked by the added insulation... and ultimately would end up with rampant mold. Its EXTREMELY difficult to deal with the condensation issues as it is and has led to mold issues that interfere with my breathing and joint discomfort... and this is despite our best daily efforts to combat the condensation. The temperature outside is just too severe a drop from the inside temperatures and it might as well be a waterfall on the inside walls. Its a nightmare. the floors and lattice are black with mold and our investment is ruined... and im sick from it all winter... which can be nearly 7 months here if I anger the weather gods. In normal building practices the position of the yurt tarp affects proper and healthy insulation installation and the breathing that a home needs to have... it just cannot be achieved as easily.

However, you can work with any of the standard insulation in the hardware stores like foam or pink batting... when they are cut to size they fit between the 4" wall studs and the roof would be a lot trickier, but can probably be done. Most of the time the pink batting doesn't even need to be cut and fits right out of the bag! We are too far gone with our yurt to risk trying it, but I have some hope that added insulation would possibly slow down the mold process (but by the same theory I base that on... it could go completely in the other direction and aid its spread more severely)

Basically... the more snow you get... the better. It works like an igloo. Just like any of the houses on the island/eastern/northern Canada... the more snow banks up around the outside the better off the structure will fair and the condensation issues lessen.

I don't know if you already have a yurt... but the dome will become an issue in our winters (we share almost the same storms/weather/winter with Quebec). The dome will drip and depending on how steep the temperatures drop below -15 it can run like a tap.

Metal thresholds on the door... oh boy. I'll stop there. If you want to know more I can fill ya in.

(I used to be "amberoons" on here, but my password stopped working so now... I'm this one)

Jafo 07-27-2015 04:48 PM

Re: R-value?
 
You could have used the lost password link. :)

Yurt Forum - A Yurt Community - Lost Password Recovery Form

YurtInTheWoods 07-27-2015 06:24 PM

Re: R-value?
 
I did. I've tried to get into the forum for a few months now but the password recovery link would never work... I've learned to check my spam box. So i tried again a couple of times this go and waited a day and nothing so i tried again the next day waited a couple of hours then made a new account. 3 hours later the link finally came through with password reset... but by then I'd posted under this one figuring I'd put in a justified amount of time and effort. Anyways. I can delete this one... or the other.

Bob Rowlands 07-29-2015 07:44 AM

Re: R-value?
 
YITW I just read your long post about mold. That's too bad. Tents and other biodegradables just don't last in along term wet envirionment. Airing out and wood heat is the only way I know to get moisture out. Wish I could give advice here. Mold is nasty.

YurtInTheWoods 08-02-2015 09:49 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Hey Bob... thanks for the sympathies. It has been frustrating. I was encouraged by the yurt companies that the Yurts would do well here and they had no reservations about it with proper care, heating and ventilation. We have been diligent and contentious about their care guidelines. However, those care guidelines make little to no difference in combating the condensation a yurt experiences. I don't blame the companies for their over confidence in their products... I am intelligent enough to weigh and measure the drawbacks and this is an obvious result of choosing to live in a yurt. We have a massive 600 lb wood stove with an "average" output of 75000 BTU which can leap enormously higher depending on the wood, dryness of wood and how high I crank the draft and flue... it is all this yurt has ever been heated with. Its a wildly powerful stove that can cook us out on some of our coldest stormiest days to a point that we have to open the dome when its -35 C and still we are becoming overwhelmed with mold from the condensation that builds up on the tarps from room temp inside and negative temps outside... it doesn't take much cold either. We find -5 outside and lower is enough to produce ice and waterfalls on the walls and roof. The only section of the walls that aren't coated in mold at this point is the immediate 1/4 of the circle that the stove us near. Realistically, Yurts shouldn't be lived in year round in most parts of Canada.

Metal thresholds build up with 2 inches of ice in -10 C in a matter of a couple of hours and we have to hammer the ice off with a 22oz hammer in order to wrench open the door just to get out. By morning we have to take shifts hammering to get to work. We will hopefully be changing those out by fall.

Bob Rowlands 08-02-2015 11:08 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Just brainstorming here. Is there any way the cover materials and or insulation materials can be replaced with more breathable canvas or felt? Even With that massive btu output stove water is being trapped at the,freeze threshold, just inside the cover? Or is the insulation soaked as well? One thought would be to erect another yurt just slightly bigger creating a shell outside the living yurt that would take the brunt of the cold?

Bob Rowlands 08-02-2015 11:23 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Wife and I lived in an apt in Jackson WY when it was sub zero for a month straight. -50 f Massive ice dam at the kitchen sliding door. Single glazed. We didn,t get mold but there were heated apts. above us and on either side. We honeymooned on the northern CA coast at Mendocino -very wet- in a friends 'get away' wood framed -uninsulated- cabin. That place was unoccupied most of the time so the heat was off. It was totally shot through with damp and mold. The smell was incredible.

Jafo 08-03-2015 01:50 AM

Re: R-value?
 
I tend to think yurts do better with less insulation when you take condensation into the equation. I would rather burn a little more wood than deal with the issues YITW describes above.

YurtInTheWoods 08-06-2015 09:41 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Hey Bob,

Thanks for the ideas. I'm not entirely sure how the breathable materials would work... as soon as we encounter a tarp its an issue. So basically the interior tarp is soaked all the time... the tarp itself is fine and cleanable, but anything it is even near will mold including its own structure... all the wood all the lattice all the flooring near it (and spreading inward... cuz thats how mold works)... which means absolutely no wood or fabric of any kind next to the walls (including the walls and floors)... I had an early 1800's trunk from Scotland passed down trough my family sitting way more than a foot away from an exterior wall... that was COATED in mould after one month... i managed to save most of it but I had to strip off much of the leather on the back... so basically its ruined and worthless now... awesome. I had another piece of furnature only near an exterior wall, but, near the wood stove and it was also ruined and covered in mold up the back which was just synthetic... anything that is even near the walls in the cold will become condensated along with the walls. If we were to remove the interior tarp it would be a massive issue with the reflective insulation. If we remove the reflective insulation alltogether we are still looking at an entirely waterproof outside layer that will end up with more severe issues due to a lack of any buffer from the cold. Yurts constructed with any felt have been reported to do extremely poorly in these climates with *drum roll* mold issues lol. I don't know if the insulation is soaked too... I would imagine it is also, but I don't dare start taking it apart to find out or we'll be completely screwed. Its better to not know at this point and work hard and fast to build a better structure to save our bacon (and the bank) The doors are shot with mold also.

Honestly if I was going to invest in building another yurt to tent this problem yurt... I'm just going to build a real house and solve all my issues in one (this is the plan).

We also had another yurt... our other yurt was unheated and not used most of the year and as a basically uninsulated structure it would suffer from temperatures fluxuations due to the day and night temp flux (which is normal)... if it wasn't constantly being opened up wide and closed to control the condensation we would have lost it as well. Even with the dome open on cool fall days with only a bit of sun (not a warm day) the middle of the floor would have a puddle on it. It would ruin anything sitting anywhere under it. No structure is immune to mold, but most structures can withstand it to some degree with modern basic building codes ... yurts just cannot handle this climate on any level. In a more temperate climate I'm sure they are fine, but they should not be sold with such unwavering confidence to northern customers... but like I said... I have a basic grasp on how condensations works and I should have been able to arrive at this before embarking on this. I just wouldn't recommend it to anyone else. If interested consumers want to listen thats great it'll save them a lot of money (cuz yurt investments aren't cheap!!!) and... if they don't... oh well.

I would have appreciated the heads up... but there were none. Everyone seems enamored with yurts, but I can't understand why at this point. When I bought this place I was a single mom with two small kids and one with a lifelong disability, trying to do something better for my family than a drafty old farmhouse with a never ending supply of costly repairs and moldy spore environment. I took all the money I had saved and put it into this... and lost it all... and instead of a list of costly repairs... I pretty much am fixing to loose the entire investment at this point. Repairs and dumping more money into rigging up ways to compensate the structure short-comings would be very costly and throwing good money after bad.

Thank you tho Bob. I really appreciate the time you took to care and offer help.

Bob Rowlands 08-06-2015 08:15 PM

Re: R-value?
 
Wish I could give helpfull advice instead of comments. Yurt was likely developed in dry climate. I'm really at a loss to help. Sorry.

Jafo 08-07-2015 09:12 AM

Re: R-value?
 
I am sorry, but I forgot what climate you are in YITW?

YurtInTheWoods 08-07-2015 08:23 PM

Re: R-value?
 
It's okay Bob. It's been distressing but we've come to terms with our loss. Id really like to spare anyone else in our climate from going through this loss as well. Now its just a matter of getting out in time to recover my health and not go deeper into debt trying to recover our property while making a new place to live.

Jafo we live in Atlantic Canada in the maritimes (PEI). It's not particularly cold here compared to the midland provinces and states. We get to -30 C tops. Lots of snow. The snow helps to slow the problem of condensation a bit by adding much needed insulation.

Along with our massive stove and is huge ability to output heat... we burn more than 12 cord of wood in one winter. Is not enough to reduce the condensation. Honestly we can't run it wide open enough to dry up any of the condensation. It doesn't stop it. If we did... we would be burning more than double in a season for 700 sq feet and it's so hot we can't be in the yurt with it on high for very long. By winters end we had more than 18 feet of snow. It was only in a near snow encased igloo setting that we had temporary relief... almost.

It's worse when we have no snow and it's only -15C. You can really see the problems snowball quickly in only a few weeks you can see the mold spreading. I've ended up having to douse the extreme mild infected areas with isopropyl alcohol to try to stem the growth for a couple of weeks to get relief from migraines and breathing issues.

I'm not looking forward to fall and the respiratory issues that await!

I'm married now to a lifelong carpenter whose the lead foreman of his company for nearly 15 years. Excellent skills and reputation etc. He took over the mortgage of this property and has an active interest with the bank to see to it that this place doesn't fall to ruin... but even with all his training, understanding and experience of building in this climate esp... he has made it clear this is a losing battle. We've given it our all to fix the issues. We just need to jump ship and hopefully one day financially recover from it.

Bob Rowlands 08-08-2015 12:36 PM

Re: R-value?
 
Damp yields decay and a return to the earth from which they orginated. Thats the cycle of life. The thinner the materials the less mass and faster they degrade. Skinny laths and organic cover degrade fast in dampness. Even heavy log dwellings eventually return to the earth. If we had no water we would have no life though. All part of what I call 'the Grand design'.

Jafo 08-08-2015 03:50 PM

Re: R-value?
 
I just find it odd that I have had basically zero humidity issues. Granted, I am not living in one full time, but I do stay at mine for weeks at a time and haven't had this problem.

YITW, do you have framed out rooms in your yurt? Is your shower and/or laundry inside? Do you have a dishwasher? Do you use a lot of propane?

I am sorry that I am asking so many questions, but I am trying to come up with some reasons why it happens in your yurt and not mine. I am in upstate NY in the snowbelt off of lake Ontario where we get similar snowfall every year.

YurtInTheWoods 08-09-2015 01:16 PM

Re: R-value?
 
Hey Jaffo,

I don't mind the questions. I understand the concern really. Its a devastating event to loose your home and this much money invested. I honestly would invite you into our home to observe it for yourself.

I don't know how big your yurt is but ours is 30 feet. Half is open. There is a loft over a bedroom and a bathroom. The bedroom is laced in mold and the bathroom doesn't have any. Same size room same air flow and the ceiling is open so there is a half foot vent around the exterior wall for air to pass easily. I can't figure that out... you would figure the bathroom would have issue as well esp considering the utilities included. The yurt is fully plummed by a professional. In the bathroom is the washer and dryer. We use only cold water to wash and we don't use the dryer... at most once a week. The bedroom has no utilities, but the room across the hall with the same heat circulation with the shower sink and washer and dryer is completely mold free.

In the other half of the open space of the yurt without any walls in the way across the room without any furnature blocking the yurt is moldy. So, no walls or anything restricting the heat (and this part of the room can get very warm with the wood stove).

The only thing these two sections of the Yurt have in common is that while the other unaffected side is facing north where the wind comes from in winter... it is about 30 and 50 feet from a thick tree line to help reduce the northern storms that hit. The molded side (south facing) faces a small yard that is tree lined but the trees are a couple hundred feet away instead. This should be acceptable since Yurts aren't sold with any limitation of open spaces around... and this isn't the direction our winter weather comes from... it comes east or north or in the form of a winter hurricane which doesn't matter where the trees are lol.

We don't have propane only wood.

I am the unfortunate dishwasher in this house. We have used conservative old school methods to wash dishes/conserve water. 2 weeks ago I finally got a dishwasher. The super eco friendly type etc. It hasn't played a role in the issues, anyway.

I suffer with severe eczema on my hands from the dryness of wood heat. Truthfully I should be using a vaporizer to help alieviate the condition, but I don't dare. I can't use a dehumidifier or I'll just simply curl up and die from this skin condition if it gets any drier.

You can feel free to ask me any questions you feel might help. The good Lord knows we're at the end of our figuring and remedies. I just feel that extreme steps or exponentially more work to try to remedy a basic living situation with all normal living elements and care already in play is unreasonable. A yurt should produce at least an "as good" as conventional building standards product... not the reverse. If people have to bend over backwards to try to stem very basic issues that aren't a problem in regular houses and recreational cottages... its not really a practical or suitable situation.

hierony 08-10-2015 10:02 AM

Re: R-value?
 
I had the lower half of a duplex once where the bathroom fan wasn't so great--take a nice hot shower, open the door a little and all the moisture would disperse to the rest of the place. In winter it would condense on the exterior wall in my bedroom, giving me mold/mildew issues. The place was probably saved by the fact the windows were very leaky (age and weathering).

The way we build things continues to evolve and change (just ask Bob)--yurts were developed over many centuries in a very different climate with very different materials with very different practices. It'll take some time to work out all the kinks here in our various climates and with our modern materials.

Do you have a bathroom or kitchen vent at all? Also be aware that lots of humans breathing will produce a fair amount of moisture, too. Have you monitored the amount of humidity in yurt or the surface temps of your walls? I might suggest a dehumidifier or dessicants (Calcium Chloride is a pretty good one), depending on humidity levels.

For what it's worth: when I moved from wet West Washington to dry Eastern Washington, my knuckles cracked and bleed in the winter. I had to make sure my hands were _thoroughly_ dry after washing them; also, I had to lay off the soap for hand washing (the oils help retain moisture in the skin).

A note on your trees: if setup as a wind block, they protect for something like 5-8 times their height. It sounds like your southern trees are too far away to do that.

I'm sorry about your problems--it sounds like it's been quite the pain! I hope you can recover/save your investment.

YurtInTheWoods 08-17-2015 08:55 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Thanks for your sympathies.

We can't salvage the yurt. In one year the temps dropped to -30 C and there was little to no way to keep up with the new level of condensation. I get the feeling people here think its just a little bit of water and a little bit of build up. Its not. If just breathing in a structure is going to offset its balance so severely... it shouldn't be marketed. I don't want my full time job just trying to find ways to sop up the constant freezing icy melty running messes. Thats what its become. The trees are far away on the south side of the property, but realistically... I shouldn't need a fortress of trees to prevent a basic issue. Its not a stipulation of requirements in living in a yurt either. Yes the trees are a distance away, but that shouldn't qualify as a passable reason why the yurt is failing.

If they are still only in the early stages of working out kinks for the regions they actively market towards, its crummy that the experimentation of this new structure came at OUR multiplied 10's of 1000 of dollars.

Its okay tho, I get that no one really wants to believe the issues are as bad as im saying... or that i spend more than half our day with the dome open windows cracked and sometimes open fully, ceiling fans, fans upstairs, fans on the stove fans in the bedroom, wood stove blazing and the thresholds are a constantly state of melting ice, the dome is dripping with water, the walls are running and streaked with water constantly.

I've met and exceeded all stipulations.

Jafo 08-17-2015 09:35 AM

Re: R-value?
 
I believe you. I wish I was close enough to drop by because I would love to document this for further study/review. I am curious though, how far is your place from say, Lowville NY?

There has to be something going on differently in your yurt than in mine and others I have been in. It may be a unique climate issue in your area, or it could be something with your specific yurt design, or something in the way you guys have it set up, or a million other things. It's hard to flesh it all out here in the forum, but I am trying. :)

I can only speak to my experience for my own yurt. I have spent weeks at a time in it, in the cold, and have even felt between the layers of roofing/insulation/liner to feel for moisture and I have never had any. But, there are probably many different variables between my yurt and yours.

YurtInTheWoods 08-17-2015 10:21 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Well we got a regular Yurt upgraded with a center pole and full snow and wind kit. I had licensed builders and other trades research it coupled with my research and contact with the company and built it to their outline of specifications. Its a large company with many years in the business. I definitely leaned on their expertise and didnt deviate from it in building.

The only thing that differs from the rest of the country is that we live on a shielded island in the Atlantic. We deal with the effects of the Atlantic coast. Its quite different than our neighbors to the south of the border even though they may be seaside... their weather doesn't always mirror ours. However, all of the Maritimes reflect our weather.

I set up the interior much like some of the designs I have seen on the company website including the general position of the walls.

I also live with a very skilled and experienced carpenter who lead foreman at his company for well over a decade and has worked across our whole country and hes pinpointed the obvious reasons after making sure we've met all the other requirements like air circulation/ventilation. It meets all other building codes. The building inspector has okayed the foundation and set up. The only part of the building that they had to make an exception for was the tarps/siding/roofing. The rest is up to code.

Lowville NY is a solid 15 hours to get here... thats a conservative estimate... similar drive when we go to Ontario... but that usually takes a full day. It doesn't seem long since we have to make this trek fairly often... but its more than a full day of just driving.

Jafo 08-17-2015 02:41 PM

Re: R-value?
 
Well, 15 hours is a bit too long for me lol.

The only thing I have heard so far that stands out different is your location. We have users here on coastlines but not many on islands and I think none on northern Atlantic islands like yourself.

I did a quick lookup of some basic climate info on your area (PEI right?) and find the rainfall to be comparable to my location, and similar in snowfall (a little less).

The one thing I did notice though is that your humidity is much higher during the cooler months than where I live:

My area:

https://dbffkv15yp72v.cloudfront.net...ercent_pct.png

Your area:

https://dbffkv15yp72v.cloudfront.net...ercent_pct.png

A high humidity during cooler weather would most likely definitely be more likely to encourage moisture/mold.

That is one thing that stands out for me. If it were me, I would try dehumidifying the room to 30% (comfortable) at all times.

That's all I can come up with, with my limited observation on your particular circumstance.

My neighbor has a house he built himself a few years ago. I see today they were ripping off his roof, plywood too. It turns out he never vented the attic (DOH!). It rotted out a lot of the wood up there. It can happen in more than just yurts apparently. :)

Bob Rowlands 08-18-2015 06:59 PM

Re: R-value?
 
This is blowing my mind. I'm actually frustrated trying to figure this out. There's gotta be a logical explanation for the problem. If only I was there to look things over. Maybe I'd figure it out. I'm guessing once the mold really takes root you are screwed without being able to bleach everything.

Hierony I use 'Working Hands' for dry weathersplit skin. Superb product.

YurtInTheWoods 08-19-2015 08:05 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Yeah... Its humid here, but not drastically more than we have dealt with in other regions of Canada... but most of the houses in our area are 100+ years old and many of those aren't upgraded to be nearer to modern standards or have only been upgraded in the last couple of decades... they survived our climate without issue so its really not too bad. If we lived in a huge climate difference like Brazil... I would expect moisture issues. Its just marginal changes and I was told it would "do well" in this region by the company. I appreciate that ill building gaffs like your neighbors might contribute to mold, but the basic structure is the issue here. Its not a suitable dwelling for our region. Its well vented and just trying to keep warm is the issue... venting it as much as we have makes that difficult. There is going to be an unintended constant moisture reaction happening at the exterior wall area regardless of our dampness just because the constant clashing of freezing outside the walls and on the walls meeting the warmth from the stove. If you look at the walls having condensation issues and in the midst of all the running water and mold is a properly engineered double pane vinyl window I put in after market, that isn't having any issue at all with the condensation in the yurt or in our general region... its pretty obvious that its the yurt and materials failing to deal with the cold properly. Realistically, if the damp and humidity was so bad in our region that it could produce such effects inside our yurt then it should extend to the whole yurt and the vinyl windows . If its a general regional issue, it also doesn't explain why the windier colder side of the yurt is laced with issues but the tree lined side isn't. I do understand dampness and I've seen it in action in homes. I think it can definitely affect a structure, but the issues suggest that's not really what is happening. Its not "that" damp here to be responsible for ice on walls doors and domes and running water on the roof and walls. I don't really want to get into dehumidifiers at their huge cost and the cost of electricity here is so wildly expensive as it is... we really can't afford to run more appliances to deal with issues that shouldn't be an issue. The reality is that its too late for this yurt now. I really can't handle any more cracked, rashed, bleeding skin with the cold and wood stove as it is... removing more moisture will make living here completely crippling. The air in the yurt after the stove is doing its thing is already pretty dry. I can get a hygrometer to prove this point in the winter, but its a dryer inside environment inside than I've ever had to deal with anywhere and its making my skin issues worse.

It is likely the worst of the issues begin at night when the temps drop and the wood stove doesn't have enough regular attention because we're sleeping. I get up twice a night to stock it to keep it warm enough by morning (its a stove with a 12 hour unattended burn and its that cold in here i have to keep stocking it all night). If the temp drops below 70 degrees in here the walls and doors ice up (the thresholds are constantly iced up). Then we have to get things warmed up around 100 degrees and wait for daylight to arrive and help with passive solar energy and things melt and thats where lots of the issues are. Its unhealthy to live in an environment thats constantly 90 + degrees esp in the loft where my kids sleep and I wouldn't be able to sleep more than 2 hours at a time at night to maintain it.

Basically due to the extent of the damage to this structure from the flooring up is beyond reasonable repair. The amount of gutting and replacing and having to repurchase materials from the manufacturer would become very expensive... like, to the tune of a new cement foundation for a new properly insulated home... and putting more money into repairs with the same issues at play would be unwise.

I bought a yurt for a simpler life. There was hope through suggestion, that it would bring down my cost of construction and living so I could give my kids something better. That wasn't the case. I don't think its fair to embark on a product promised to be suitable and now my full time job is repairs, condensation clean up and spending more money and effort on repair maintenance issues that shouldn't even be a consideration in a living space. I'm not spending much time able to focus on life when I'm so busy trying to curb issues that most structures never face and the rest of the time I'm sick and can't breathe from mold while watching my life savings circle the toilet. I followed all the company specs and maintenance, I've followed all current building codes, I do what is reasonably expected of a home owner to maintain their dwelling and my regions dampness may differ slightly... but looking at evidence, isn't really the reason for the issues. My yurt sucks and is mold infested and rotting after only 4 years because its a yurt and a poor design. If i could save another person from going through this and they want to listen to reason... I'd like to. That is originally why I responded to this thread. I've made my peace with my loss.

Thanks for the suggestion of the "working hands" Bob... i actually use a lot of that! I have it on my night stand and in the living room and kitchen lol. It is decent stuff and not too pricy. It never really cures or heals much of it... but it helps alieviate the pain for a while and thats worth SO much.

Yogurt 09-20-2018 05:30 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Hi YurtInTheWoods, sorry for your troubles, and I hope things are well with you now. Here are some alternative thoughts on the problems you had.

1: The manufacturer didn't treat the wood as well as they should have. Possibly didn't sand it well enough either (more surface area, more exposure to nature). Might have been a more edible wood as well.

2: The mold spores may have survived while the mycelium died; add water and you'll have mold in a hurry once again.

3: The extra heat accelerated the mold growth.

4: Radiant barriers work best with less contact; they act as thermal conductors when touched, and the growing snow drifts were pressing everything against it, making them less effective, melting extra snow.

5: Water from the large amount of snow outside was being wicked inside. That could be the reason there was so much water despite the dry indoor air. Probably a "waterproof" fabric, but maybe not entirely. Though, I know you said it was worst without the snow.

Was the radiant barrier perforated? Or could water work it's way around the edges of the radiant barrier?

I hope your health and happiness has recovered. And if possible, I hope the manufacturer helps you recover your losses.

Bob Rowlands 09-22-2018 07:22 AM

Re: R-value?
 
Water is a prime factor in all decay.

HawaiiYurts 08-25-2019 04:09 PM

Re: R-value?
 
Sounds like a reflective barrier insulation would actually help the situation a lot. It would keep the moisture between the exterior and the upper layer of insulation. That could drain if needed as long as the insulation is run past the floor (bring the yurt wall exterior down past that). During the day the sun would heat it up and dry it all out. This is what we recommend in all our yurts in Hawaii and it works supremely well. No mold issues even though our humidity reader stays pretty consistently at 80%!

For R-value, you could double up. Do a layer of reflective and then a layer of something else that works with that equation (reflective insulations on their own don't work with that equation).

Bob Rowlands 08-25-2019 04:46 PM

Re: R-value?
 
Thanks for that advice.

HawaiiYurts 08-25-2019 05:32 PM

Re: R-value?
 
I wish I had seen this thread sooner. Do we know who the manufacturer was here? Seems like something was definitely off from the start... Even with condensation, the amount of water YITW describes is no slight drip. It scrapped the whole yurt? :O Materials would have been better to be a Durolast or ProTech or the sort, not canvas. Then the reflective insulation as a vapor barrier.

Upon installation we automatically do a trick to make the roof become a 'flange' at the top of the compression ring by attaching a piece of flexible conduit to the top of the ring, under the roof. This prevents any condensation from the dome or blow back from strong rains/winds from coming under the dome and dripping to the floor or down the rafters. Water can drip to the edges from condensation or blow under at the perimeter of the dome, but the flange prevents it from ever gaining real entry.

LITW is probably long gone now, out of her yurt and sharing her unhappy experience with other would-be-yurt dwellers. It makes me sad to hear of such experiences and I tend to think these stem from inexperienced yurt makers who didn't know how better to advise a client. She is right when she says that's not right. Yurt makers should not be creating victims along the way to the end of their training. And poor yurts hurt the entire industry and image, preventing permitting and the solid reputation these structures deserve.


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