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The Yurt Platform

Jafo

Jafo

Administrator
Staff member
The yurt platform construction has begun:

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The block was hollow and we drove rebar through their centers into the ground and then filled the block with cement. The uprights are attached to the rebar. We did it this way because the ground is very rocky so burying piers was not an option.

We hauled in the 2X6 tongue and groove hemlock manually, carrying it on our shoulders as most of the new road has yet to settle.

Getting there!
 
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Here are some pics from day #3. We are using 2X6 tongue and groove for the platform. It should sand up nice!

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They have basically completed the platform today:

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I still have to sand off some of the dirt, and seal the deck, but otherwise it is ready for the yurt!

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Re: The Platform

That's a BEAUTIFUL platform! We tend to do the T&G too, sands and varnishes up SO nice~~~ And take out the need for the joists and sub-floor. Cost ends up being about the same!
 
Re: The Platform

It's obvious you enjoyed building that platform because it is superb. My home made 16' yurt is currently sitting on the ground. I'm starting to think about a decent 2x6 floor for it.
 
Re: The Platform

My 16' yurt platform is done. My next door neighbor strolled up and said, "Bob that is a work of art. You're a master carpenter." Like I needed my head swelled up. lol
 
Re: The Platform

Leveled the yurt site dead flat for support pads. No piers needed. 19 - 80#bags quikrete, 46 - 12"D sonotube x 3.5" H pads on 2 to 3' centers support 2x4 deck framing. Simpson rafter ties embedded in concrete pads anchor the joisting to 1520 pounds of concrete pads. 36 courses of 2x6 deck boards, butted tight, top the framing, screwed with 3" plated deck screws. 2 gallons paint on framing and deck. Yurt khana will be anchored to deck with home made 90 degree angles.

Real Mongolian, huh? lol
 
Re: The Platform

You know, I'd really like to do that, but I don't have the computer chops to load pics on here, or anywhere else for that matter. I'm 'computer challenged' lol I'd have to have someone who knows how to load them looking over my shoulder and showing me step by step how it's done. Bummer. :/
 
Re: The Platform

Re-erected my yurt atop the new platform today. Penciled the yurt outside diameter line onto the deck. Khana anchored to line on deck with hand made 90 degree angles that bolt through the lowest lattice cross and into the platform with screws. Solid and perfectly round. I'll have my son help move the woodstove back up into the yurt, since my back is killin me. :)

Now gotta build a couple double sleeping bunks and big table for the grandkids to 'camp out'. And papa and grandma too. :D
 
Re: The Platform

hey y'all. My friend is a carpenter and helped me design a 20 ft. deck/ saved me a good bit of money by reducing the number of cross beams/ concrete piers needed. two osb bands around the edge/ advantech as the only floor (floor paint does wonders)/ eventually foam board insulation will be installed underneath. The square boxes you see in the corner are insulated to hold food and can be accessed through "secret compartments" in the floor :)

Initially I went to my friend with the free plans from pacific yurts/ while they are good plans this seemed to drastically shave off the materials cost and is extremely solid.
 

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Re: The Platform

Beautiful platform!
I am deciding between conventional platform like yours or a Structural Integrated Panel floor (4" thick insulated plywood "boxes" with R16 rating) assembled directly on top of a post and beam style base. Any comments from you would be very helpful. {The SIP panels will cost about $6000}. I live in moderate climate with occasional snow rarely up to 12" deep. I need to commit to materials soon. Thank You,' Doug 530 575 1842
 
Re: The Platform

IMO $6000 is alot of money for a yurt floor. With that $ amount in mind, I'd stay with conventional framing on top of the post and beam. Convenional floor framing is used everywhere because it is relatively inexpensive. Fast and easy to frame. Every journeyman carpenter knows how to frame a floor. As for insulation, I'd install conventional fiberglass batts for the same reasons. But this is JMO.
 
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