Introduction & starting our build next week! Questions!

[wasatchjon]

Hi all, I have lurked here for a while and as we are about to start building our yurt I thought I would start a thread on it to ask some questions and solicit advice as I'm sure others have either had the same questions or will soon!

Site info: We own 40 acres in Northern Utah where we don't need a permit to build our yurt...yay! 7,900 feet. Usually 5+ foot of standing snow in the winter. Gentle 5% slope/grade.

Yurt info: We decided on a 20' Pacific Yurt because we got a good deal on a kit that someone purchased a few years ago but never built (still on skids!) and

Pacific Yurts

was super nice with answering our dumb questions thus far. Got the extra

insulation

and snow/wind kit. Plan on building the platform 3-5' above existing grade.

Build Equip: Kubota BX25D, a 'mini tractor' (This one). Can dig up to 7' deep holes. Also got a super deal on a concrete mixer at Harbor Freight (This one)...$125!

Builder info: I'm pretty handy but have never poured concrete footings. The platform is by far my main concern.

Question thus far: I'm ready to start digging and I plan on using Pacific's 20' platform plan found HERE. I'm using Bigfoot Systems footing/sonotube system and will be sinking Simpson EPB 44 post holders (THESE) into the top of the sonotubes. My main question is has anyone who used this combination (or is smart with these things...) used Re-bar in the sonotube? Did you bend the end of the rebar so that it fits in the 'curls' of the EPB44?

Thanks, will update this thread as things progress!

[Bob Rowlands]

Rebar isn't necessary for a

yurt platform

, as long as the tube is down in the ground and not sticking above grade more than a foot. Lower is better of course. In a seismic area with the tube sticking above ground, and subject to lateral shifting, rebar is necessary by code. Plus the tube needs to be down in the ground at a 3:1 ratio relative to the height above grade.

I've installed those anchors in deck footings a few times. The are very good anchors. Make sure you have the layout correct.

[Bob Rowlands]

Work the anchor down into the concrete to where the post base is flat on top of the concrete. If you pour the first couple piers too dry you'll have to rod the mud surrounding the post anchor to fill in any voids. Been there done that.

The mud going into sonotubes where post anchors are set needs to be wet enough to where just jigging the anchor is enough to get the voids filled without having to tamp and jab and mess around filling in the voids. That's any immediate flag the mud is too dry. Also slope the concrete away from the post base for water runoff.